I didn’t mean to go there, it wasn’t my intention at all, and yet what better proof is there of the old adage, “Everything happens for a reason“? Perhaps it was a combination of driving on the right hand side of the road and driving in a right hand drive vehicle. Perhaps it was fate. Whatever the reason, I ended up in the Auvergne, a place I had never heard of before, and I never wanted to leave!
The Auvergne is in the centre of the Massif Central. Of course, being in the middle of France means that it has no coastline. Usually this would be enough to put me off a region but there is enough water in the form of clear blue lakes (lacs), many of which one can swim in, to satisfy my aquatic nature. It is made up of four départements: Puy de Dome, Haute Loire, Cantal and Allier. The capital city of the Auvergne is Clermont Ferrand.
Since first discovering the Auvergne, I have been back many times. Each time I discover something new which delights me as well as rediscovering old favourites. From the volcanic scenery of the Cantal and Puy-de-Dome départements to the plateaux and pine forested landscape of the Livradois-Forez area of the départements of Haute-Loire and Puy-de-Dome, this ever-changing scenery is enough to capture anyone’s heart. One of France’s longest rivers gives its name to the Allier département; its source is in the Lozère and it continues to wind through many places including the Gorges de l’Allier in the Haute Loire before it reaches the Loire. west of Nevers.
The city of Clermont Ferrand, the economic and cultural centre of the Massif Central, is also well worth a visit as it has not only the many shopping, cafés, bars and restaurants which you would expect of any French city but the Auvergne’s capital is also filled with architectural treasures: most notably the gothic style Cathedrale Notre-Dame, which is built out of black lava, and the Basilique Notre Dame du Port, which was built in the 1100s.
Just as one visit could never be enough to see all that the region of the Auvergne has to offer, so one article can never be enough to describe all that there is to discover. For me, the lacs are probably the most appealing feature: most notably Lac Pavin and Le Gour de Tazenat.
Lac Pavin, which has a wonderful circular walk around its perimeter and water which changes colour as you view it from different perspectives as well as changing with each season, is the deepest lac in the Auvergne and is surrounded by magnificent scenery. This crater lac was formed by a huge volcanic explosion. Visiting Lac Pavin is like stepping into another world as there is often snow on the surrounding Monts d’Auvergne, even when it is warm enough to eat outside in a lower part of the Auvergne. The town of Besse and the ski resort of Super Besse have a distinct Alpine feel.
My other favourite is Le Gour de Tazenat with its forested banks. My children prefer this lake as not only can they swim in it but they can also use their rubber dinghy. Again the surrounding scenery is magnificent.
Apart from water, my other main priorities on holiday are food and drink and the company of friends. As with any French region, there are many specialities. Amongst my lunchtime favourites is a salade Auvergnate comprising a variety of salads, sometimes walnuts, and the melt in your mouth Bleu d’Auvergne cheese or La Fourme d’Ambert which is a milder blue cheese with an almost nutty flavour. Other notable cheeses are St Nectaire (the children’s favourite) and le Cantal. Auvergne wines are little known outside of the region and I hear that no Appellation Contrôlée (AOC) wines are produced there although several VDQS wines (Vin délimité de qualité supérieure) are. Something for us to explore further during our next visit!
No matter what time of year I have visited the Auvergne, there is always something worth visiting. When we last visited during the summer, I thought I already knew what there was on offer but suddenly we stumbled upon a garlic festival in a small town near Clermont Ferrand. We spent a large part of the day browsing the many stalls, not only of garlic but also many other local specialities, and watching the people go by from the terraces of the cafes. I bought a selection of different varieties of garlic and the children, of course, bought beach towels which could have come from any market in any country in the world!
My overriding recollection of the Auvergne, and what takes me back time after time, is that of fresh, clean air; cool, clear waters; the most amazingly friendly and hospitable people and an overwhelming sensation of peace.